Hey fellow green living enthusiasts! 
I’ve recently taken the plunge into using milk paint for some of my home renovation projects, specifically on a vintage wooden dresser and a couple of accent walls. I chose Real Milk Paint Co. for its all-natural ingredients and was thrilled with the initial application. The matte finish gave everything a beautifully rustic look that I was aiming for. But, as with any new product, I’m curious about its performance over time.
From my experience, milk paint adheres wonderfully to porous surfaces like raw wood, but I’ve heard mixed reviews about its longevity on previously painted or non-porous surfaces. I applied a natural beeswax finish over the paint to seal it, which seems to be holding up well so far. However, I’m wondering about long-term maintenance. Does anyone have tips on keeping milk paint looking fresh? How often should I reapply the beeswax or consider a new coat of paint?
Also, for those who’ve used milk paint for several years, have you noticed any fading or chipping? I’m particularly interested in how it performs in high-traffic areas or on furniture that gets a lot of use. Let’s share our experiences and tips for maintaining the beauty and integrity of milk paint over time. Looking forward to your insights!
I’ve been using Real Milk Paint Co. for about three years now on various furniture pieces around my home. I find that the key to longevity is definitely in the preparation and sealing. Like you, I use a beeswax finish, and I reapply it once a year to keep everything looking fresh. On high-traffic pieces, like my kitchen table, I’ve noticed minimal chipping, but nothing that a quick touch-up can’t fix. It’s all about the maintenance!
3 Likes
I’m a big fan of the matte finish that milk paint provides, but I was worried about durability at first. I used it on an old bookshelf that gets a lot of use, and after two years, it’s holding up surprisingly well. I did apply a couple of coats of Tried & True Original Wood Finish over the paint for extra protection, which I think has made a big difference. No fading or chipping so far!
2 Likes
@GreenThumb88 That’s great to hear! I was hoping the beeswax would be enough to keep it protected. Do you find that the annual reapplication is enough, or do you spot treat areas that get more wear?
1 Like
@EcoPainterJane I usually do a full reapplication once a year, but I do keep an eye on high-use areas and spot treat as needed. It’s pretty easy to blend in the beeswax, so touch-ups aren’t noticeable. Just make sure to clean the surface well before reapplying!
2 Likes
Has anyone tried using milk paint on metal surfaces? I’m considering it for some vintage garden tools but unsure about adhesion and longevity. Any tips or product recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
1 Like
@NatureLover23 I’ve used milk paint on metal before, but I always make sure to thoroughly clean and lightly sand the surface first for better adhesion. I also recommend using a bonding agent like Milk Paint Bonding Agent to help the paint stick to non-porous surfaces. It’s worked well for me on a few projects!
4 Likes
I love the eco-friendly aspect of milk paint, but I’m curious about color options. Are there limitations, or can you mix your own colors? I’m looking for a very specific shade for a project and wondering if milk paint can deliver.
@SandyShorelines You can definitely mix your own colors with milk paint! I’ve done it several times to get the perfect shade. Just start with the basic colors and experiment with mixing. It’s a bit of trial and error, but it’s worth it for that custom look. Plus, it’s fun!
3 Likes
I’ve been using milk paint for a couple of years now, mostly on furniture. I agree that preparation and sealing are crucial. I use a different sealer though, a hemp oil finish, and it’s been great. It gives a bit more sheen than beeswax, which I prefer. On my coffee table, which sees a lot of use, I’ve only had to touch up once in two years. It’s all about finding what works best for your pieces and sticking to a maintenance routine.
2 Likes
Interesting to hear about the hemp oil finish. I’ve stuck with beeswax because I love the matte look, but I might give hemp oil a try on my next project. Has anyone tried milk paint on outdoor furniture? I’m curious about how it holds up against the elements. I’m thinking of painting an old bench but worried about rain and sun exposure.
5 Likes
I tried milk paint on an outdoor chair last summer. It didn’t last long, to be honest. The rain washed it away pretty quickly, even with a sealer. I think milk paint is better suited for indoor projects unless you’re okay with repainting every season. For outdoor furniture, I’ve had better luck with exterior-grade latex paint, even though it’s not as eco-friendly.
5 Likes
That’s good to know about outdoor use. I’ll stick to indoor projects then. On another note, has anyone experimented with adding pigments to milk paint? I’m thinking of creating a custom color for a bookshelf but not sure how it will affect the paint’s consistency and adhesion.
I’ve added pigments to milk paint before, and it worked out well. Just make sure to mix thoroughly to avoid any clumps. The key is to add the pigment slowly and test the color as you go. It didn’t seem to affect the adhesion in my experience, but I did notice the color was a bit more vibrant after sealing. It’s a fun way to get exactly the shade you want.
2 Likes
Adding pigments sounds like a great idea for custom projects. I’m curious, has anyone used milk paint on metal surfaces? I have an old metal cabinet that could use a refresh, but I’m not sure if milk paint would adhere well. Any tips or should I look for a different type of paint?
1 Like
I’ve been using milk paint for about three years now on various pieces of furniture, including a dining table that sees daily use. I found that the key to longevity is in the prep work and the finish. I always sand the surface lightly before applying the paint and use a high-quality sealer like hemp oil. It’s held up remarkably well, with only minor touch-ups needed in high-use areas. The matte finish does tend to show wear more than a glossy finish would, but I think that adds to the charm.
3 Likes
Interesting to hear about the hemp oil. I’ve been using linseed oil as a sealer for my milk paint projects and have had good results too. My kitchen cabinets were done two years ago and still look great, despite the steam and grease they’re exposed to. I do a quick wipe down with a damp cloth every week and reapply the oil once a year. It’s a bit of work, but worth it for the natural look and feel.
4 Likes
I tried milk paint on a non-porous surface once, and it was a disaster. It started peeling within months, even with a sealer. I think milk paint really shines on raw wood or other porous materials. For anything else, I’d stick to traditional paint. It’s a bummer because I love the eco-friendly aspect of milk paint, but it’s not a one-size-fits-all solution.
3 Likes
Has anyone experimented with adding pigments to milk paint for custom colors? I’m curious about how that affects the paint’s performance over time. I’m thinking of trying it on a side table project but don’t want to compromise the durability. Also, any tips on achieving a consistent color when mixing your own pigments would be appreciated.
I’ve actually used milk paint on a few metal surfaces, including an old metal chair and some garden tools. The key is to make sure the metal is clean and slightly roughed up for better adhesion. I used a fine-grit sandpaper to scuff the surface lightly before applying the paint. It’s been a couple of years, and the paint is holding up surprisingly well, even on the garden tools that are exposed to the elements. I did apply a protective wax finish over the paint, which I think helps with durability. Just make sure to reapply the wax every now and then to keep it protected.
5 Likes